Two Classic Climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park

Thursday
  • Four of us met up after work, packed the car to the brim, and headed off to Colorado.
  • Drove, uneventfully, through the night.
Friday
  • Arrived at Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) around 7:00 AM.
  • Checked in at the Back Country Ranger Station to get our permits.
  • Drove around in town to get a bear canister
  • Drove back into the park, parked at the Bear Lake parking lot, and headed down the Glacier Gorge trail.
  • Arrived at Star Lake around 1:00 PM.
  • Made our way to the base of the Cathedral Spires and Petit Grepon.

  • Racked up and started climbing!
  • Topped out after 6:00 PM and began the rappels. 
  • Darkness fell and it became difficult to find the rappel anchors. 
  • Arrived back at the base of the spire between 8:00 and 9:00 PM.
  • Realized that the girls were gone and probably worried sick; decided that we had to get back to the car before midnight so that they wouldn't call SAR or the rangers.
  • Slowly picked our way down the scree and boulders and finally found the trail (with one headlamp).
  • Speed hiked/jogged back up the Glacier Gorge trail to the parking lot; arrived at 11:30 PM (but the girls had already called the rangers- we were deemed competent enough to spend the night outside, so no rescuers were sent).
  • Crashed in someone else's campsite a little after midnight.
Saturday
  • Woke up fairly early and broke camp, trying not to make our neighbors too mad or get in trouble with any authorities.
  • Drove back into Estes Park to return the bear can, ended up having breakfast and walking around a lame arts and crafts festival.
  • Drove to the Longs Peak trail head, prepped our packs, and started up the trail.
  • Had a long, scenic hike to the Boulder Field camp.
  • Arrived at camp between 7:00 - 8:00 PM; set up the tents, ate dinner, and went to sleep.
Sunday
  • Woke up early (4:30 AM) and headed across the boulder field to the notch.
  • Arrived at the notch shortly before the sun came up.
  • Rappelled down to Broadway (got the rope stuck around a horn on one of the rappels and my partner had to solo to free the rope).
  • Started up the Diamond's Casual Route around 9:00 AM (we mistakenly started on the 5.9 variation which freaked me out a little bit).
  • Climbed all day long with fantastic exposure and good weather (it was slightly chilly in the shadows, but the sun was shining with no clouds and no rain!).
  • Finished up the climb around 6:00 PM, and exited the ledge to the left for the trail up to the summit.

  • Wasted lots of time, energy, and day light looking for the trail to the summit; took many false lines that became too dangerous or just impossible and had to down climb repeatedly. 
  • Finally found our way to the top and immediately started the descent via the hiker's trail in the dark (but with two headlamps this time!).
  • Made fast time at the beginning but lost our way in scree/talus/boulders around the keyhole.
  • Unknowingly descended on the wrong side of an important ridge, shortly separated from each other, my knee began to hurt.
  • Looked at the map and decided to follow the topography to the river; found the river and drank the water straight, but it was the wrong river.
  • Discovered our mistake, prayed, and started to make our way around the ridge in order to return to the boulder field camp.
  • Stopped around 1:00 AM, too tired to continue safely, built a small windbreak on a stone slab and tried to sleep.
  • Started raining shortly after we laid down; sought shelter under an overhanging rock, but discomfort and poor protection forced us out; finally found/made a better(?) spot under the original stone slab (there was no room between the bottom of the slab and the ground, very cramped).
Sunday
  • Woke up at 4:30 AM and started hiking again, traversing the side of the ridge.
  • Finally arrived back in camp around 7:00 AM, the girls were worried and upset. 
  • Broke camp and hiked back to the car.
  • Drove to my climbing partner's grandparent's where we showered and were fed the best ribs, salad, and warm cookies ever!
  • Drove all day and through the night back to Texas! 
  • Arrived back home around 5:00 or 6:00 AM.

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